Kneading, resting and rolling fresh pasta: what the dough should feel like, when to add flour and why the sauce needs to be ready.
Start with a dough you can read
Fresh pasta dough looks unpromising at first: flour, egg and a rough pile of crumbs. Kneading brings it together. Watch for a smoother surface and a dough that holds its shape when you lift it from the worktop.
Flour varies, and eggs do too. Keep a little flour nearby, but add it sparingly. A dry dough is hard work to roll and difficult to repair. If it feels sticky, give it a brief rest before deciding it needs more flour.
Let time do some of the work
Wrap the dough to stop the surface drying out, then let it rest before rolling. Dough that keeps springing back is difficult to work with. Give it a little more time, keeping it covered while you clear space for the sheets.
Divide it into small pieces and keep the ones you are not using covered. Work gradually through the roller settings. A thin sheet should feel supple rather than brittle, with enough strength to lift from the worktop.
Keep the sauce ready
Cut the sheets into ribbons and dust them lightly to stop them clinging together. Shake off loose flour before cooking. Have the sauce warm and the plates ready: fresh pasta cooks quickly, and its texture is easier to judge by tasting than by watching a timer.
Move the pasta into the warm sauce while it still has a little bite. Add a splash of cooking water and toss until the sauce clings to the ribbons. Butter, black pepper and grated cheese are enough for the first plate.
