Record the batter, tray position and oven setting when baking macarons, then change one detail at a time between batches.

Begin with one recipe

Macarons involve several stages that affect the final shell: making the meringue, folding the batter, piping and baking. Use one detailed recipe for a few batches. It is much easier to spot a change when the method stays the same.

Weigh the ingredients carefully and prepare the trays before starting. A template beneath the baking paper can help keep the shells similar in size. Remove it before the tray goes into the oven.

Write down what you see

Note how the batter falls from the spatula and how quickly a piped mound settles. These observations are more useful than counting folds without looking at the bowl.

Record the tray position, resting time and oven setting. Photograph a few shells after cooling and jot down what you see: cracks, leaning feet or a hollow centre. Change one part of the method on the next batch so you can compare.

Match the filling to the shell

Pair shells of similar size and pipe a small amount of filling into the centre. Press gently until it reaches near the edge. Too much filling can hide the texture you worked to create.

Keep the finished macarons for the resting time specified for their filling. Try one before and after that rest. The shell softens where it meets the filling, changing the texture of the whole biscuit.

All stories