Brown mushrooms, season the broth and cook noodles separately. Finish the bowls with tender greens, ginger and spring onion.
Let the mushrooms colour
Slice a mixture of mushrooms and cook them in a wide pan with a little oil. Give them space and let some edges turn golden before stirring. A crowded pan encourages them to steam in their own moisture.
Once the mushrooms have browned, lower the heat and add sliced ginger, garlic and the white parts of a spring onion. Stir until fragrant, taking care not to scorch the garlic.
Taste the broth before the noodles
Pour in stock and scrape up the browned bits from the pan. Simmer gently, then season with a little soy sauce. For a miso broth, loosen the paste in a ladleful of warm stock before stirring it into the pot off the heat.
Keep checking the balance as you season. It is easier to add another spoonful than to undo a broth that is too salty. Remember that the noodles and vegetables will make each mouthful milder.
Assemble just before eating
Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions and divide them between warm bowls. Add the mushrooms, tender greens and broth, then finish with sliced spring onion.
Keep spare noodles separate from the broth so they do not absorb it. Next time, vary the greens or add sliced tofu. The browned mushrooms and stock can stay the same.
