Brown mushrooms in batches, warm the tortillas and finish with cabbage, radishes, lime and salsa. Bring the fillings to the table.
Give the mushrooms room
Put mushrooms into a hot pan and leave space between the pieces. As they cook, they release moisture. Wait until that has evaporated and the edges have browned before adding another handful.
Tear or cut them into pieces that will sit comfortably in a small tortilla. A mixture of shapes gives the filling a better texture than a uniform pile of thin slices. Add your seasoning once the surface has begun to brown.
Prepare the cold things first
Shred the cabbage, slice the radishes and cut the lime before warming the tortillas. Put them in separate bowls. The hot filling can go straight to the table when it is ready.
Keep the salsa separate so everyone can choose how much to add. Taste it with a piece of the filling rather than on its own. A salsa that seems very sharp from a spoon may be exactly right with warm mushrooms and a soft tortilla.
Serve in small rounds
Warm the tortillas in a dry pan and wrap them in a clean cloth as they come off the heat. They should be soft enough to fold easily. Fill them modestly: an overfilled taco is difficult to eat and hides the flavour of the tortilla.
Bring the mushrooms and cold toppings to the table together. Warm a small stack of tortillas at a time and keep the rest wrapped. Each taco can have a little more salsa or lime than the last.
